Since the time of their formation, the isolated Ogasawara Islands have never been physically connected to the mainland. The islands are home to rare and endemic species that have followed unique evolutionary paths, and because of the great value of their ecosystems, which showcase these unique evolutionary processes, they were designated as a World Natural Heritage Site in 2011.

All the creatures that live on the islands traveled a long way to get here. The Nanyo-odori dance similarly reached the islands from across the sea.

“The Nanyo-odori is said to have originated in the pre-war period when Japan administered Saipan, Palau, and other islands in the South Seas (called “Nanyo” in Japanese). People came to Saipan on business and learned the dances and songs of these islands, then brought them back to the Ogasawara Islands.”

The mayor of Ogasawara Village, Masaaki Shibuya, explains.

The Nanyo-odori disappeared from the Ogasawara Islands for a time after World War II, when they were occupied by the United States and the residents were forced to move to the mainland. The former residents, however, never forgot the dance, and after the islands were returned to Japan in 1968, the islanders returned and revived the custom. The dance is now designated as an Intangible Folk Cultural Property by the Tokyo Metropolitan Government.

“Shall we dance to a song together?,” asks Shibuya.

He learned how to do the Nanyo-odori dance soon after moving to Ogasawara, and has been dancing and singing its accompanying songs for 40 years. He stood up with a smile on his face and performed a song called “Urame” on the spot for us. This is the first song of the Nanyo-odori dance, which consists of five songs in total.

Stepping left and right, he called out, for some reason in English, in time with the music: “Left, right, left, right…” The lyrics to “Urame” are not in Japanese.

“The words are in one of languages of the South Seas Islands and date to the time it was first conveyed; we sing them without knowing the meaning. But the second song, “Yoake-mae” (“Before Dawn”) is in Japanese. It’s a vestige of the Japanese language education that was conducted on the islands of the South Seas at that time,” says Shibuya.

This mystical dance carries hints of traditional Japanese dancing amid its exotic atmosphere. After being taught the choreography, the six people present mastered the dance in about 10 minutes. When everyone begins dancing together, it instantly creates a boisterous festival mood.

“The Nanyo-odori is a part of me. When elementary schools here have a sports day, all the children dance the Nanyo-odori. The elderly teach newcomers to the island, and elementary school students who have learned to dance teach the younger children, and so it has been passed down from generation to generation,” shares Shibuya.

When dancing, it’s tradition to adorn one’s hair with hibiscus flowers, palm leaves, and other items associated with the nature of the islands. Shibuya says that it feels great dancing on the beach against a backdrop of lush green trees. “It’s a dance that is set off by the natural beauty of the islands.”

Tokkan-kon kaka, tokkan-kon kaka… The rhythm of the Nanyo-odori is addictive. An instrument called the kaka is used to provide the beat. The name comes from the “ka-ka” sound it makes when struck.

According to Shibuya, “It’s made by hollowing out a tamanu, a plant that grows on the islands, and is struck to make it resonate. Originally, islands in the South Seas communicated with each other by sound, like Morse code, and the instrument was transmitted to the Ogasawara Islands. We used to get together on the full moon and have fun tapping our kaka.”

A variety of other music can also be found on the Ogasawara Islands. For example, there are the many traditional songs, called “Ogasawara koyo.” “Lemon-bayashi” (“Lemon Grove”) is one of the most famous, and is also used as the 5:00 p.m. chime in the local disaster prevention broadcast. Travel around the islands and you’re sure to hear it somewhere. Commit it to memory and no matter where you go, it’ll take you back to your time on the Ogasawara Islands.

And perhaps sharing the same island spirit, hula dancing from Hawaii is also popular on Ogasawara.

“People with ties to Hawaii brought it to the islands, and ever since, the number of people who hula dance has increased. We also have steel drum music, played using an instrument made from industrial metal drums, and many young people do the latest dances. Many island residents love dancing and music. Often, when we have a party and drink together, it gets lively and everyone sings and dances together,” says Shibuya.

The Ogasawara Islands are warm throughout the year, and the beaches are officially opened on at New Year’s Day. Even in winter, the weather is spring-like, and the sight of mother and child humpback whales swimming together is a sign of springtime. Meanwhile, on land, spring is the season of meeting new people as well as farewells.

“On the Ogasawara Islands, however,” Shibuya says, “we are always meeting new people and saying goodbye, not just in spring but year-round.” The Ogasawara-maru, a weekly scheduled ferry service departing from Takeshiba, Tokyo, takes 24 hours each way to and from the islands. Most travelers spend four days on the islands, board the boat on the fifth day, and return to Tokyo on the sixth day.

“Almost as if the islands were breathing, they welcome large groups of people who spend some time with us and then go back out the next week. On days the Ogasawara-maru sets sail, many islanders gather at the port to pray for the safety of the travelers and see them off.”

As a way to say goodbye, large taiko drums are also played with great power and energy on the dock. Called Ogasawara taiko, these drums were first played by people who moved to the Ogasawara Islands from Hachijo-jima in the Meiji period (1868–1912) to remember their original home. The Ogasawara taiko is a double-sided drum, which is unusual in Japan.

As the ship begins to depart to the stirring sound of the drums, many ships run alongside to bid farewell. The islanders wave their hands in large, sweeping gestures. Then, at the very end, they make spectacular dives into the sea one by one.

“It’s always sad to say goodbye,” Shibuya affirms. “That is why it is the island style to be so cheerful and lively. Hoping to see our visitors again, we always say ‘see you later’ instead of ‘goodbye.’”

The warm and friendly Ogasawara Islands make you want to say “I’m home” over and over again. The opportunities for Nanyo-odori dance and kaka performances are limited to occasions such as the opening of the beaches in January and the festival to celebrate the return of the islands to Japan in June, but a variety of kinds of music are a part of life on the Ogasawara Islands. You can always find Ogasawara-style melodies and rhythms wherever you go on the archipelago. If you’re very lucky, a local islander may even teach you some.