Shirakami-Sanchi is a mountainous area straddling the prefectures of Aomori and Akita. This remote region was spared from logging thanks to the harsh conditions of its rugged terrain, allowing it to remain in almost the same state as 8,000 years ago.
The area of the beech forest, thought to be the largest in East Asia, is approximately 130,000 hectares, meaning that an area equivalent to about half of Tokyo Metropolis (210,000 hectares) is covered by beech trees. The forest is home to numerous species including the Japanese serow, a Special National Monument, as well as the golden eagle, which is endangered in Japan.
In recognition of this rarity, Shirakami-Sanchi was designated Japan’s first World Natural Heritage Sites in 1993 alongside the island of Yakushima in Kagoshima Prefecture.

It is here that the Matagi, who have developed their own culture since the Heian period (794–1185), reside.
“Matagi are people who hunt while adhering to a strict code. I belong to the group called Meya Matagi, who make Shirakami-Sanchi our hunting grounds. I, too, was walking through the forest behind adults even in my earliest memories and learned knowledge of hunting and making preserved food.”
These are the words of Shigeki Kudo, who was born to an ancient line of Matagi and inherited their culture. He also works as a tour guide for Shirakami Matagisha, a group formed to preserve the unique traditions of the Matagi for future generations as the number of Matagi leading a traditional lifestyle continues to decline.

Various animals are hunted in Shirakami-Sanchi including hares, pheasants, raccoon dogs, and badgers. However, the most dangerous to hunt is the Asian black bear. Bear hunts, which take place between late April and early May, are a huge task for Matagi in spring.
Kudo: “Bear meat, pelts, and gallbladders have been valued since ancient times. Gallbladders in particular are famous even today for their use in Chinese medicine, and as indicated by the saying ‘A bear’s gallbladder is worth its weight in gold,’ they have long been prized.”
After fasting during hibernation, bears’ gallbladders are filled with bile, and their pelts are fluffy with winter fur. That is why bears were the most valuable in early spring.
Kudo: “When we capture a bear, we offer thanks for this blessing from the mountain deities before butchering it. To survive in the mountains, we must repeatedly harden our hearts and take life. That is why Matagi is sometimes written with the Chinese characters for ‘again’ and ‘ogre,’ meaning ‘repeated mercilessness like an ogre.’ Consequently, we refer to killing an animal as ‘receiving a gift from the deities’ and show our gratitude for the gift of this life by using all of it without wasting anything.”

Bear hunting is followed by the season of gathering wild plants. In the old days, this was apparently an even busier time, when Matagi would float previously chopped and stored wood down rivers of snowmelt and sell it as firewood downstream, as well as catch freshwater fish.
Kudo: “Nowadays there are fewer fish due to a dam built nearby, but lots of cherry salmon, sweetfish, and char used to swim up the river. Matagi would toil away at salting these as a preserved food for the coming winter.”
In summer, Matagi would sell charcoal they had made and prepare for the Bon Festival. In autumn, they would gather mushrooms and start hunting. And in winter, they would resume charcoal making and go hunting if the weather permitted. This was a year for the Matagi in the old days.

Shigeki Kudo, who has walked through the forest of Shirakami-Sanchi for over sixty years, describes the beauty of its four seasons as follows.
“What makes this area so special is definitely its natural beech forest. In spring, besides yellowish green sprouts and shoots, there are also leaves that turn red, yellow, and pink like autumn foliage. We call these the ‘changing colors of spring.’”
As if enticed by the warmer weather, animals become more active, and the forest soon bustles with life. Kudo says, smiling: “Just now, I spotted a Japanese serow mother and fawn on the forest path.”
In summer, the trees draw abundant nutrition from the earth, turning their leaves a brilliant green. Eventually, these leaves turn yellow, orange, and gold and fall to the ground as the quiet of winter arrives.
Kudo: “In winter, the temperature can dip below negative 15 degrees Celsius. The snow creates soft scenes like the world of an ink wash painting. The way the ice clings thickly to branches, resembling flowers, is also incredibly beautiful.”

In addition, a number of large and impressive waterfalls have formed through erosion and weathering in Shirakami-Sanchi due to its brittle geology. One of the area’s most splendid sights is the three-tiered Anmon-no-Taki Waterfall. Not only the cascade itself but also the surrounding gorge is spectacular.
Meanwhile, to enjoy panoramic views, head for the highest peak of the Shirakami-Sanchi mountains, Mt. Shirakami (1,235 meters). Depending on the season, it is covered with gorgeous fields of flowers and has been known since ancient times as one of the most sacred mountains in the Tsugaru region. The mountain is also popular with climbers.

Eco-tours led by Shirakami Matagisha are perfect for those who would like to walk through the mysterious forest, which changes dramatically from season to season, in the company of Matagi.
Kudo: “We offer various tours, including a visit to Tsugaru Pass, the location of the famous ‘Mother Tree,’ where you can find beautiful giant beeches; walking along the cool water’s edge and encountering waterfalls; visiting a Matagi hut; and attempting a full-scale climb of Mount Shirakami. The Shirakami-Sanchi area is truly huge, and traversing it takes a lot of time, so making thorough plans in advance is a good idea if you want to make the most of your trip.”

Visiting the Sea of Japan side is recommended if you would like to see the dazzlingly blue Aoike Pond and Juniko Lakes, while the area of Nishimeya Village, where Kudo lives, is recommended for exploring the vast beech forest.
Looking at the forest is like looking at a microcosm of the Earth and even of the universe. We have much to learn from the Matagi, who have coexisted with nature for so long.

The Ani Matagi are famous throughout Japan as the Matagi of Akita Prefecture. The Mt. Moriyoshi area in the Ani region of northern Akita Prefecture, not far from Shirakami-Sanchi, is said to be their home. They also have a history as “traveling Matagi” who left their homeland to hunt throughout Japan and eventually settled in those places, spreading their hunting techniques and traditions.
Kaiko no Mori (“Forest of Encounters”), a novel by Tatsuya Kumagai that depicts the Ani Matagi, won the Shugoro Yamamoto Prize and the Naoki Prize in 2004. This helped spread awareness of the Ani Matagi. The book offers a sense of how they differ from the Meya Matagi of Shirakami-Sanchi.