Protruding into the Sea of Okhotsk from the northeastern tip of Hokkaido, the Shiretoko Peninsula is a slender peninsula about 70 kilometers in length and 25 kilometers across at its widest part. The Shiretoko mountains, a range of peaks as much as 1,500 meters in height formed by undersea volcanic activity that began about 8.6 million years ago, stretch from north to south at the center of the peninsula, including volcanoes still active to this day such as Mount Rausu and Mount Io.
In winter, when sea ice drifts toward the Shiretoko Peninsula, the sea becomes ice bound. While this may seem like an inhospitable environment, the sea ice actually holds the origins of Shiretoko’s rich ecosystem. The secret lies in the phytoplankton clinging to the ice. In spring, when the ice melts, they proliferate in the nutrient-rich sea. They are eaten by zooplankton, which in turn become food for fish and birds, which then become prey to animals such as orcas and sea lions going up the food chain.

Meanwhile, on land, countless salmon and trout swim upstream every year in the ninety rivers that flow from the Shiretoko mountains to the sea. Having grown large in the nutrient-rich sea, these fish provide sustenance for brown bears, Steller’s sea eagles, and Blakiston’s fish owls. The remains left behind by predators become food for small animals and are finally broken down by bacteria, creating rich soil that nourishes Shiretoko’s forests. After a long period of time, the nutrients in the soil return to the sea via rivers, where they once again support the propagation of phytoplankton.
Thus, the sea and land as well as the creatures that inhabit them are all intricately connected. In recognition of this precious ecosystem, an approximately 71,100-hectare area, including land from the center of the Shiretoko Peninsula to Cape Shiretoko at its tip, as well as the surrounding sea, was registered as a World Natural Heritage Site in 2005.

“The Ainu of Shiretoko led a hunter-gatherer lifestyle receiving the bounty of the sea and mountains and developed a culture based on nature worship, in which they revered animals like Blakiston’s fish owls, orcas, and brown bears as deities. This lifestyle of coexistence as part of nature offers many lessons for those of us living in the present day.”
Those are the words of Masayoshi Hayasaka, who conducted the first Ainu-led tours of Shiretoko. After working as a tour guide in Shiretoko for fourteen years beginning in 2007, he now lives in Sapporo, where he shares Ainu culture through carving, traditional dance, and performing on a traditional instrument.

Hayasaka: “The Ainu worshipped animals like brown bears, orcas, and fish owls as kamuy or deities and yet also hunted them and used them as food. You might find it strange that they would ‘eat’ their deities, but in their view, these were all gifts from the gods to be received with gratitude. The Ainu made clothing from animal pelts, the skins of fish and birds, and the inner bark of plants. They fashioned tools for hunting and fishing from animal bones and used many plants as medicines. Thus, they revered the sources of bounty in their lives and natural phenomena as deities.”
In sharing Ainu culture, there is a scene of Shiretoko that Hayasaka says he particularly enjoys. It is the sight of brown bears hunting salmon swimming upstream at the end of summer.
“The Ainu cherished salmon, which they called kamuy-cep or ‘fish of the gods,’ based on the belief that it was a gift for humans sent by kamuy from the world of the gods. During summer, food is scarce, and brown bears become emaciated while patiently awaiting the upstream migration of salmon. However, when the salmon return, they plunge into the rivers and eat until their bellies are full. Watching this makes me conscious of the great circle of life in Shiretoko and reminds me of how the Ainu, too, once lived as part of nature.”

Hayasaka has guided many visitors while conducting Ainu-led nature tours of Shiretoko since 2007. Before entering the forest, he always offers a traditional Ainu prayer to the gods, rubbing the palms of his hands together and then turning them upward. This gesture is apparently meant to convey to the gods, “I have nothing in my hands and mean you no harm.”
On his approximately two-hour tours, Hayakawa picks up forest plants and explains how the Ainu used them. For example: “This is the Japanese linden, which was essential for making clothing. The Ainu would use the fibers of its inner bark. They used the bark of the Amur cork tree when they had stomach pains. As you can see, they used various plants as medicine.”
Surprisingly, the plants that the Ainu once used in their daily lives are still growing today. While the dynamic landscapes and wild animals are indeed captivating, the opportunity to connect with Ainu culture through the plants at your feet is also one of the great joys of walking in Shiretoko.

One thing that Hayasaka always explains to participants on his tours is the iomante (bear sacrifice) ceremony traditionally performed by the Ainu.
Hayasaka: “Iomante is one of the most important traditional Ainu ceremonies. A brown bear cub captured while hunting at the beginning of spring is raised carefully for one or two years, and then, its spirit is sent to the world of the gods as part of a great ceremony involving the entire village. When I tell people about this practice, many of them express discomfort at first, calling it ‘cruel.’ To that, I respond by asking them, ‘Well, you eat meat, don’t you?’”
The reason why Hayasaka goes out of his way to bring up this sensitive aspect of Ainu culture that may produce feelings of discomfort is to make people living today reconsider how they interact with nature.
Hayasaka: “While raising the bear cub for years, people live with constant awareness of a divine presence. They believe that after the cub, which was treated with great care in the human world, enters the world of the gods, it will return to the human world in the form of an animal, bringing with it bounty. Thus, appreciation and reverence for nature is at the root of receiving sustenance by eating living things. In Japan, it is customary to express thanks by saying itadakimasu before eating a meal. I hope that coming into contact with Ainu culture will give people an opportunity to think about the true meaning of this practice.”

One of Hayasaka’s favorite vistas in Shiretoko is Furepe-no-Taki Falls. On his own tours, he would lead visitors along the path to the falls while telling them about Ainu history, culture, and folklore.
Hayasaka: “At Furepe-no-Taki Falls, you can enjoy panoramic views of the sheer coastline and the majestic Shiretoko mountains, as well as the sight of water flowing off a 100-meter cliff into the sea. This is a spot where even inexperienced hikers can come into contact with the dynamic natural beauty of Shiretoko. There are no manmade objects anywhere to be seen, allowing you to vicariously experience the landscape as the Ainu would have seen it.”

Furepe-no-Taki Falls are about one kilometer from the Shiretoko National Park Nature Center in Utoro. Although the walking path is well maintained and relatively flat, the area is a habitat for brown bears. For those nervous about walking alone, Hayasaka recommends registering for one of the various guided tours.
Hayasaka: “Spring is especially beautiful with the new green leaves, and the amount of water flowing down the falls increases, making an impressive sight. Flowers bloom along the walking path, and you can feel the joy of spring finally arriving after the long winter, along with the power of nature. Since brown bears are just becoming active after waking up from hibernation, caution is necessary, but feeling their presence is also one of the thrills of walking in Shiretoko.”
Humans, too, are part of nature. This is an important lesson from the Ainu to those of us living in the modern day, and in Shiretoko, where the Ainu culture lives on, that message resonates not only in our minds but also in our bodies and hearts.